Every Sunday in Harajuku

Only in Japan could this "spontaneous" Harajaku street display of counter-culture fashion, wild hair and loud rock bands be so well organised.

After the ubiquitous suits of Tokyo business types, Harajuku is a riot of colour and (dare we say it) imagination, where piercings, unforgivingly dyed hair and wild make-up are the norm. From punk to goth to rockers, all the major music trends seem to be represented by the costumes of the girls, with a few brides usually thrown into the mix too.

The presentation is meticulous and the girls hang out posing in groups, which makes for pretty orderly youth rebellion. Nonetheless, at first glance you might mistake this hip pocket of Tokyo for London or New York. The shopping is choice along Omotesando-dori, fascinating along Takeshita-dori and the cafes are, subjectively speaking, the best in town.

Meanwhile, the boys do their bit by going for it on temporary stages lined up along a closed-off street. There are few bands that don't fit into an easily identifiable category and yes, Elvis Lives here too! The musical competition to be heard makes for a spectacularly deafening mix of sounds. Each band has a loyal posse of groovers, who mimic both the style and every movement happening on stage.

Known in recent times as takenoko-zuku (the bamboo shoot tribe), the youths who flout Japanese conformist codes (or do they?) at the Harajuku parade on Sunday are grudgingly accepted by the mainstream as a little colour on the street. Adults hope they'll grow out of it, and they usually do!

Yoyogi Park, adjoining the wonderful Meiji Shrine, is a good spot for recovering from this sensory onslaught. Stall sellers trade the usual Japanese snack foods and families picnic decorously under the trees.